Friday, February 25, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
I like eating nuts. Sometimes when I can't be bothered to make something proper to eat, I'll use nuts as my protein, eating them straight from the bag. I haven't been recipe testing for a while because I'm usually just cooking for myself and can't be bothered. Carla had a Salty Smoeky Roasted Nuts Recipe this month that I thought that I would try because I like smoked nuts. She also put the recipe on her blog. Don't forget to check on them so that they don't burn!
Monday, February 21, 2011
Friday, February 18, 2011
I started by cutting out a cardboard piece the size of the pocket without the seam allowances as Peter suggests in his blog. I placed the cardboard template on the wrong side of the fabric and ironed the seam allowances over the edges of it. WARNING: be careful what kind of cardboard you use! I used a frozen pizza box and it stuck a bit to the fabric as I was pulling it off. Fortunately none of the writing came off but from now on I'll use something else.
I added the 2cm that was called for the upper edge but then realized that it would be too small if I wanted to fold it over twice. So my first hem was as small as I dared. I made the pocket a bit shorter so I could have a bit bigger hem for the top edge. With wrong sides together I stitched the top edge to the side seam. Then I turned it right side out and top stitched so the flap inside wouldn't flap around.
I liked the shape of this pocket. It was easy to fold around the cardboard template and easy to sew with straight edges and no curves. I'm not sure if it is in the right postition but once my son tries the shirt on he can decide himself where he wants it. And if he wants a pocket on the other side too and the shape of the pocket.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Open the folded edge and refold it over the raw edges.
Pin the edge down. (Yes I know I use a lot of pins but with bad eyesight and winter sunlight I'd rather do as little unpicking as possible.)
On the wrong side topstitch close to the loose edge. I sewed from one end to the other. When I come to a thicker part I use this handy bump helper first before the bump and then after it.
First sleeve done.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Iron the placket in half lengthwise. Open it and fold one edge close to the middle and iron this fold.
Unfold the placket, spread open the sleeve vent and pin the uncreased right side to the right side of the sleeve. The middle point of the sleeve edge needs to be about 8-9mm away from the edge of the placket. (I have a piece of black thread along the edge of sleeve to show that the edges don't meet.) Sew the seam allowance distance from the edge of the placket piece. Once you get to the middle it will be tricky because there is too much material to lay flat. I tried googling how to avoid this but wasn't able to find any answer. So I just did the best I could.
Iron the seam allowance towards the placket piece. Pull the placket piece around to the wrong side of the sleeve and turn the prefolded edge under and pin down. Top stitch, being careful to hide the other seam. With right sides together, fold the placket in half and sew a short diagonal seam at the top.
Not too difficult and turned out ok for the muslin. I might try different plackets to see if I like something else better.
I used the spell check and it high-lighted almost everything! I'll try again tomorrow.
Friday, February 11, 2011
I started by pinning (the green pin) and then basting the pleats on the back piece. Then I put the back piece between the two (wrong sides out) yoke pieces and sewed through the three layers. I read somewhere that you should press all of your seams on both sides before moving on to the next step, so that is what I'm going to do.
Next was ironing to turn the seam allowance towards the yoke. I turned the whole thing over and ironed the other side the same way. After that I put both yoke pieces wrong sides together and ironed them from the outside. I decided to do the top-stitching on the yoke now because there wasn't as much material to move around. As this is the muslin I did the row of top-stitching and didn't bother to look where it should be. I just went and checked four of my son's store-bought shirts and the top-stitching on them is right at the edge and I did it 7 mm away! Oh well.
There is a way of finishing the shirt yoke called the burrito. I tried to look at it from people's blogs because I wasn't getting it. The pattern I'm using doesn't have a separate piece for the button 'placket' (is it then a placket?) so I didn't have to worry about that. The way I did it was to have the wrong sides of the front and back pieces facing and pin them together. Opening up the two yoke pieces I laid the wrong sides of the yokes down on the table.
Then I took the back piece and rolled it up and laid it on the yoke piece that was already pinned. I did the same to the front piece so that the pins were laying on the table.
I brought the unpinned yoke edge up and over the rolled pieces to meet with the pinned edges and pinned it to them. I sewed the seam, ironed it and repeated the steps with the other front piece.
Everything was turned right side out, ironed and I'll top-stitched close to the edge when there's daylight again!
Oops. I just read on Peter's blog that you should start by stay-stitching the neckline. I've done it now.
Monday, February 7, 2011
Sunday, February 6, 2011
The sleeves turned out well even though they were 1 cm longer than we thought would be necessary. It was nice seeing long enough sleeves on my son! I made a mistake with narrowing the sides and didn't narrow them enough. Fortunately! I thought that the shirt was too tight in one place and I don't know if he would have been able to wear it if I had narrowed it as much as planned.
Now that the shirt sleeves were long enough my son noticed that the suit jacket sleeves could be longer. But that will keep until he needs the suit again. Hopefully that won't be for years. And the shoulders are too wide, and the ....